龔曉雯 奢侈品珠寶管理 碩預(yù)

 I have studied and worked in the jewelry industry for 12 years. During these years, I knew the most famous ruby ‘Black Prince's Ruby’ on the crown of the British queen was found to be a spinel in 1660. ‘The Ocean Star’ of <Titanic> in the movie witnessed a beautiful love story, but people were debating whether it is sapphire or tanzanite. Corundum and its similar gemstones have become a heated market in China in recent years. So how do people distinguish their similarities and differences? What do you think of their value? Why people want to buy them? These questions intrigued me to start my research. I have learned that people paid more attention on the sense of ritual and the symbolic significance of corundum. But actually, the consumers are very traditional.

The global economy encountered a period of suspension in 2013. The market economy has been severely hit by the coronavirus in 2020. Although the second-hand luxury market still has trading volume, the meaning behind this trading volume may not be the recovery of the economy, but perhaps the omen of the economic bust. Jadeite has become a pricy commodity, but no one buys it. I did market research and interviewed the consumers and practitioner to know: what do they think of the current jadeite market? What do they think of the design and value of these products? The pessimism of practitioners and the enthusiasm of consumers resulted in contradiction. This is an obvious difference between the two parties on the value cognition of the jadeite.

我學(xué)習(xí)和從事珠寶行業(yè)12年。在這段時(shí)間中，我知道了英國(guó)女王的皇冠上最出名的紅寶石“black prince’s ruby”在1660年發(fā)現(xiàn)是個(gè)尖晶石。電影中《鐵坦尼克號(hào)》的“海洋之星”見(jiàn)證了一個(gè)美好的愛(ài)情故事。但是人們?yōu)榱怂撬{(lán)寶石還是坦桑石，爭(zhēng)論不休。剛玉和他的相似寶石，成為中國(guó)這幾年市場(chǎng)大熱。那么人們?cè)趺捶直嫠麄兊南嗨浦幒筒煌?？怎么看待他們的價(jià)值？人們?yōu)槭裁促?gòu)買他們？這些問(wèn)題讓我產(chǎn)生了興趣并展開(kāi)了調(diào)研。通過(guò)我的調(diào)研，我了解到了人們關(guān)注剛玉更多的是其儀式感和象征意義。但其實(shí)消費(fèi)者們?nèi)匀缓軅鹘y(tǒng)。

2013年全球經(jīng)濟(jì)碰到了平緩期。2020年冠狀病毒讓市場(chǎng)經(jīng)濟(jì)受到了嚴(yán)重的打擊。雖然二手奢侈品市場(chǎng)還是有成交量，但是這個(gè)成交量背后的含義不是經(jīng)濟(jì)的復(fù)蘇，反而或許是經(jīng)濟(jì)奔潰的預(yù)兆。翡翠成為了高價(jià)商品，但卻進(jìn)入了無(wú)人購(gòu)買的尷尬狀態(tài)。我做了市場(chǎng)調(diào)查、消費(fèi)者和從業(yè)者的訪問(wèn)，想去了解：他們?cè)趺纯创F(xiàn)在的翡翠市場(chǎng)？怎么看待產(chǎn)品的設(shè)計(jì)和價(jià)值？從業(yè)者的悲觀和消費(fèi)者的熱情產(chǎn)生了矛盾。這是雙方對(duì)翡翠價(jià)值認(rèn)知上的明顯區(qū)別。