高櫻 設(shè)計(jì)管理 碩士預(yù)科

曾經(jīng)紅極一時(shí)的服裝品牌Bape，如今默默無聞。而主理人Nigo而后創(chuàng)立的Human Made如今平穩(wěn)發(fā)展。這個(gè)現(xiàn)象引起了我好奇。

我調(diào)研了Bape和Human Made這兩個(gè)品牌的基本信息，策略和消費(fèi)者群體、以及主理人的個(gè)人背景。并將兩個(gè)品牌的發(fā)展歷史和運(yùn)營模式進(jìn)行了對比。在此過程中我也采訪了一位經(jīng)過對一些設(shè)計(jì)師兼品牌主里人，他表示也曾面領(lǐng)過相似的問題。在這一系列的研究后，我發(fā)現(xiàn)很多設(shè)計(jì)師有一個(gè)錯(cuò)誤的認(rèn)知：把在設(shè)計(jì)上的成功和商業(yè)上的成功劃等號(hào)，但我認(rèn)為在品牌運(yùn)營中不同的工作角色應(yīng)該被區(qū)分。

Human Made的成功，也讓我注意到始祖鳥和戶外運(yùn)動(dòng)，以及們所象征的文化和流行趨勢正在國內(nèi)興起。因此我接著調(diào)研了“山系”這一時(shí)尚風(fēng)格。山系風(fēng)格不光體現(xiàn)在服裝設(shè)計(jì)上，也會(huì)通過品牌的視覺符號(hào)、顏色、廣告等平面設(shè)計(jì)來體現(xiàn)。后疫情時(shí)代人們對自由和自然的向往也成為了這一文化和類似品牌進(jìn)一步發(fā)展的契機(jī)。而山系時(shí)尚產(chǎn)品的高價(jià)定位也反映了其受眾群的消費(fèi)能力，和他們的消費(fèi)習(xí)慣。根據(jù)調(diào)研我也對這一類品牌發(fā)展提出了一些列建議：比如通過拓展設(shè)計(jì)風(fēng)格吸引更多消費(fèi)群體；針對女性群體設(shè)計(jì)更多有助于戶外個(gè)人安全保護(hù)的功能；研發(fā)或使用一些環(huán)保面料以此加深品牌背后的文化意義。

GAO Ying

Design Management

The once immensely popular clothing brand Bape is now obscure, while Human Made, founded by the same founder Nigo, is steadily growing. This phenomenon intrigued me.

I researched the basic information, strategies, and consumer demographics of both Bape and Human Made, as well as the personal background of their founders. I compared the development history and operational models of the two brands. During this process, I interviewed a designer who is also a brand owner and faced similar questions. From this series of research, I found that many designers mistakenly equate design success with business success, but I believe different roles in brand operation should be distinguished.

The success of Human Made also drew my attention to the rise of outdoor culture and trends symbolized by brands like The North Face. Therefore, I continued my research into the "mountain style" fashion trend. This style is not only reflected in clothing design but also through the brand's visual symbols, colors, and advertising. The post-pandemic era has seen a desire for freedom and nature, providing further opportunities for the development of this culture and similar brands. The high pricing of mountain-style fashion products reflects the purchasing power and habits of its audience. Based on my research, I have also made some recommendations for the development of such brands: for example, expanding design styles to attract more consumer groups; designing more outdoor safety features for female consumers; and researching or using environmentally friendly fabrics to deepen the cultural significance behind the brand.